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Tomorrow I’m Appearing On The Yarn Thing!

Marly-Bird-Podcast

Tomorrow I’ll be appearing on Marly Bird’s The Yarn Thing Podcast.  I’m terribly excited: Marly is an incredibly smart businesswoman and very genuine with an infectious laugh.  I’ve only gotten to meet her a couple of times – I’m so enthused to be able to chat with her on her podcast!

If you’ve never listened to a podcast before, they’re terribly fun.  Basically radio shows for the internet, there’s a variety of shows I love.  The Yarn Thing is one of the ones I listen to when I need to get some serious stitchin’ done.

Lest you think the show is all about yarn, knitting and crocheting, fear not – Marly is well known for arranging some killer prizes to give away during the show.

The Yarn Thing podcast runs live at 10 AM Mountain Time, but you can listen even after the podcast is done.  The link is HERE.

I’d love to hear what you think of the podcast after the fact.  Shoot me an email, comment, or send me a tweet or facebook message!

Isis Wings and Totoro: Old and New Handknit Socks

Yesterday I got a welcome package in the mail from Three Irish Girls: a pair of handknit socks.  Now, these weren’t just any two pairs of socks.  This pair of socks were the samples made for Three Irish Girls’ back in the day when I designed Totoro and Isis wings for them – two of the very first patterns I ever designed for them.  Seeing these two pairs of socks was like meeting old friends you didn’t know you had – both these samples were made by hired knitters, and sent straight to TIG headquarters.

Meanwhile, since I was new to the designing, I also created my own pairs of the socks, testing out the idea before I wrote it into a pattern.

I thought it would be interesting to compare the two samples side-by-side.

Two handknit socks, both the same pattern, one heavily worn and darned, the other new.

Isis Wings: Old Pair on Bottom, New (to me) pair on Top

Here you see Isis Wings, in both variations.  First, note my pair, worn with many washings and faded to grey from a sit in the sun.  There’s a stitch I noticed I need to mend marked by a stitch marker; the bottom is more darn than original sock.  The yarn I made my sample for was a little larger than the final yarn used for Isis Wings – the motif on mine ends up looking more open and bold.  For the final Isis wings I decided to set the heel decreases in a little, and I created a little bit of rounder toe.  The ribbing for the cuff on the final version is shorter, and I did something simpler and less distinctive than the 2×2 ribbing on my sample.  You might notice that one of my Isis Wings socks is taller than the other: I’ve mentioned before how I forgot a repeat on one of my socks.

Two handknit socks, same pattern, older one faded, newer one still vibrant.

Totoro; Old Pattern on Top, New Pattern on Bottom.

On Totoro the differences are a little more subtle.  The patterning with the slipped stitch V is the same; I changed the heel from a riverbed heel to a short row heel.  At the time, I couldn’t figure out how to write a Riverbed heel and grade it the way I wanted.  I added more repeats to the top on the final version.  Again, I couldn’t figure out how to wrap the pattern around the leg and grade it for different sizes, so the cuff of the sock has a column of missing V’s up each side.  If I were to go back, I’d either re-grade the pattern, or add some other feature up the leg on the side so it doesn’t look so empty.

Mitts and Crochet: New Classes at Untangled Purls

Starting next week I’ve got a great lineup of Fall classes at Untangled Purls, in Fredericksburg, VA.  I’m looking forward to the opportunity to teach at Untangled Purls: Most of my classes for the last year (with the exception of my camps) have been workshop based – that is, one and done.

I’ve missed the camaraderie and relationship that builds with a class when you teach week after week: you get to know your students better, and you get to watch students progress in a way that is different than workshops.  I wanted to highlight two of the classes I’ll be teaching at Untangled Purls.

Photocredit: © Ambah O'Brien

Photocredit: © Ambah O’Brien

Beginning Stranded Knitting is based of of a wonderful pattern called Maroo Mitts by Ambah.  This is a great introductory project to stranded knitting, and I hope you might be able to join me!  Learn more about the class here.

 

Photocredit: Freshstitches

Photocredit: Freshstitches

Crochet Softies is based around four of Stacey Trock’s FreshStitches patterns: Kepler the Lion, Nelson the Owl, Flavia the Unicorn and Cliff the Brontosaurus.  I love these patterns because they’re a great next step for students who have learned how to crochet, but haven’t quite mastered reading a pattern or working in the round.  I have so much fun helping students create these fun stuffed animals: and they make perfect gifts!  You can find out more about the class here!

Shenandoah Valley Fiber Festival!

Tomorrow morning I’ll be heading off to the Shenandoah Valley Fiber Festival – one of my favorite to teach at!  Last year was my first year teaching at the fairgrounds, and I loved every moment of it.  The staff are great; the venue is lovely, and the drive to Berryville is a pleasure.

Last year I was so busy teaching both days that I barely had time to breathe.  This time I’ve got a little more flexibility –  I’m teaching one class on Saturday afternoon, and another Sunday morning.  Mr. Turtle and I talked about going apple picking on the way home.

If you’ve never been to SVFF, it’s a great fiber festival for kids, and a feast for the eyes for stitchers.  Last year Mr. Turtle was fascinated by the sheep dog demos.

I was glad to see some of my favorite vendors.  When you do the fiber festival circuit, various vendors become your friends, and it’s good to see them again and catchup for a few minutes between sales or setting up.  If you go to the festival, go and look up Turtle Made – a company that makes the most clever turkish spindles.  Also check out Dragonfly Fibers – they’ve been the lovely sponsor of a few of my designs!

Meanwhile, I’ll be in the instructor tents doing what I do best, teaching my heart out.  This weekend we’ve got a reprise of a constant favorite, Duct Tape Dress Forms, and also a class on repairing handknits.  If you have a spare moment, keep an eye out for me at lunch, as I grab a quick bite and say hello to as many people as I can!

How to Set a Zipper in a Sweater

The rights have reverted back to me for a number of blog posts I did for Jordana Paige’s blog a few years ago, and I’ve begun re-posting them on occasion to have them on my own website, and so students can reference them.  This particular tutorial about setting a zipper into a sweater, I’ve updated and refreshed, but much of the technique remains the same.

 

Setting in a zipper is a process that takes time, patience, and a certain amount of willingness to fiddle.  Not everyone likes to do that, which is why so many of the finishing projects I do involve setting in zippers.  But if you’re willing to take the time, setting in a zipper can be very satisfying!

To set in a zipper you will need: a zipper, yarn to match the garment, yarn (or embroidery floss) in a contrasting color, a sewing needle (with a sharp point!), pins, and the 2 sides that you are attaching to the zipper.

a sweater, matching yarn, a zipper, needle and red embroidery floss are shown on a white background.

It’s helpful to have all your materials available!

Please note: When purchasing a zipper, make sure you get the correct type!  You don’t want a zipper for a bag, as it is attached together at both ends – you’d never be able to get your garment off!  Same thing with double ended zippers.  Take time to read the package and know what you are getting.  Also pay attention to length.  As I explain below, get the right size zipper, or a little longer.

The first thing I do is block the two fronts to the garment I’m attaching the zipper to.  Make sure the front is blocked to the correct measurements, and that your zipper will match those measurements, or be slightly longer.  If you need to, you can trim the top of the zipper to the length you want.  Make sure you use a file to eliminate any rough edges, and sew a new stopper so your zipper tab doesn’t come off.

Next, pin the zipper into place on the inside of the garment.  Make sure that you are not pulling or distorting the knit fabric – at all.  If you pull the fabric to stretch to the zipper, it can cause the zipper to pucker or wave.  After you’ve gotten things in place, I like to run a basting stitch along the zipper, as I don’t like to get poked with pins.  It also makes super-sure your zipper doesn’t shift around.

To do a basting stitch, take some waste yarn or thread, and use a running stitch, sewing the zipper to the fabric with big stitches.  When you’re done attaching the zipper, you can remove the basting stitch, so don’t worry if the basting stitch isn’t perfect.

Using a running stitch to baste the zipper to the fabric.

 

After I’ve finished basting (and this is another good reason to baste your work, because you can’t do this if the zipper is pinned), I check to make sure that the zipper can zip up and down without catching on any fabric.  Better to find this out now than after I’ve sewed everything together!  This is your opportunity to make any adjustments.

The basting stitch on the wrong side of your work.

Finally, you can sew the zipper to the piece.  Depending on the piece, sometimes I use the yarn the sweater was worked in.  Other times, if the yarn is delicate, loosely plied, or extremely fuzzy, I’ll use sewing thread in a color that is close to the color of the yarn.  Either way, I use the same technique.

Working from the back, I secure the yarn.  When I sew, I make sure that each time I’m going over only a single strand of yarn between two stitches.  Basically go into the purl bump if viewing from the back.  Mostly, I choose the space between the first and second stitches against the edge.

Working very slowly, I sew my way up one side, then up the other.  Be patient. Take your time. Check your work often.  Use small stitches.  Because the zipper is located at the front of the sweater, I’m super careful to make sure that my sewing doesn’t show.  Sometimes, if the fabric is wide, I’ll run a second set of stitches further out along the zipper band, so it doesn’t flop and lies nicely down.  You can see I did this from the picture below.

The zipper, sewn to the sweater with two rows of stitches.

 

When you’ve finished attaching the zipper to both sides of the fabric, I check my work.  Check again to make sure the zipper moves smoothly along the track.  Then, and only then, if I’m happy with what I’ve done do I remove the basting stitches.  Finally, weave in your ends.

Zipper in sweater

 

Crochetscene 2015: Riverbend Skirt

Riverbend is the final of the patterns I worked for Crochetscene 2015.  Like Bow Wrap and Crossed Arrow, I had a really good idea of this pattern long before I turned it into a proposal.  Unlike the other two, Riverbend’s genesis and maturing happened at a lot slower of rate.

Part of this was I was working on other projects, and part of it was wanting to let the genesis pattern have a bit of distance before I created something in the same vein.

Sketch for Riverbend

Riverbend became a design idea back when I was working on Victoria’s Riflebird.  Victoria’s Rifebird is a wrap that should be familiar – it has very similar shaping to Riverbend!  You could say they are siblings.  Once I had finished Victoria’s Riflebird, but before I wove in the ends, Sweetness, one of the girls I nannied at the time, wrapped the wrap around her waist and gave a swirl.  I realized then that a similar shape would work really well with a skirt – with some minor adjustments!

I love the idea of wrap skirts.  I like the versatility and the sizing flexibility.  When I was a kid one of my favorite skirts for about a year was a wrap skirt made of two layers of fabric.  Now, I have another wrap skirt that I wear at least once a week in the summer and the fall.  Riverbend is directly influenced by both those skirts.

Riverbend is also defined by the finishing details of this skirt: there’s a bold fun button in he same color of the wedges (a vintage one harvested from my great-grandmother’s collection), and another vintage button in the main color on the inside.

Riverbend, all finished and on one of my new models – this one being more full-hipped.

Riverbend is a wrap skirt, and sizing makes it super flexible.  The subtle a-line of the skirt makes it great in multiple colors for a summery cover-up for every-day skirt, or do it in solid colors for a more professional look.  The distinctive wedges are created using my special technique to work crochet short rows.  (Keep an eye out, there’s a class on that with Interweave coming soon!)  The ribbed fabric gives it a bit of a sexy silhouette – it hugs the hips just a bit before flaring out.  Unlike my original sketch, which had the skirt looking a lot more full, math and practicality made the finished project a little bit less flared.

Riverbend, on my model that’s a bit less full-hipped, you can see the difference in the way the skirt hangs.

Riverbend is currently available in the newest issue of Crochetscene 2015.  You can check out it, and my other three patterns, in the issue!  Also check out my Ravelry page, where you can read my personal notes and the stats about the time I spent on this project!

Crochetscene 2015: Bow Wrap

Bow Wrap from Interweave Crochetscene 2015 by Jennifer Raymond

Photo Credit: Interweave/Harper Point Photography

My original sketch for the design proposal.

They say that copying is the highest form of flattery.  While I’m not quite sure that’s true, this piece is directly inspired by a cute little miniature wrap I saw on a small child last winter.  While I wouldn’t be surprised if the little girl’s version was more complicated, I immediately thought that I’d wear her wrap, in an adult size.  Bow Wrap was then put in my brain’s back pocket, until I submitted the idea to Crochetscene.

As I mentioned on Monday, when I was working on proposing these designs for Crochetscene, I was also coming off of working on a few projects in finer yarn, and I knew that I wanted something a little bit more sized up.  Bow Wrap is made holding two yarns together, but you could easily substitute for a bulkier yarn with similar results.  Holding the two yarns together creates a cushy, stretchy and warm ribbed fabric.  The ribbed fabric is created by working crochet through the back loop.

The “gather” is made in a contrast color, with a single yarn held together.  I toyed with the idea of creating another version of this, in a sparkly yarn or fastening some glittery pin over top of the gather, for some added class and interest.  Well, I may yet make a second version!

Bow Wrap from Crochetscene 2015

I love the look of the textured stitches, and the way the wrap drapes over the shoulders!

There’s two things I think that make Bow Wrap stand out as a project.  The first is simplicity: Bow Wrap is essentially made up of two squares – the magic happens in the seaming.

 

Bow Wrap by Jennifer Raymond

Wear over the neck and shoulders to keep out the chill!

 

The second thing I love about Bow Wrap is the styling options.  It can be worn like it’s featured in the magazine, but it can also be worn a few other ways!  I had fun taking pictures of a couple of different styling options.

 

Bow Wrap by Jennifer Raymond

Wear it like a traditional cowl, with the “gather” in the back

Bow Wrap can be found in the latest issue of Crochetscene 2015, or on Interweave’s website.  For more information and notes about my sample, you can read about it in my Bow Wrap pattern page.

Crochetscene 2015: Crossed Arrow Vest

Photo Credit: Interweave/Harper Point Photography

This week I’m focusing on my three patterns released in Crochetscene 2015!  I had the honor of getting all three of my design submissions accepted – and it was so exciting to work on these three designs.  Today I’m focusing on Crossed Arrow, a Hunger-Games inspired vest that’s accessible to beginning crocheters.  With minimal seams and simple shaping, the most challenging part is the edging – and broomstick is an easy skill to learn!

My Sketch for Crossed Arrow

I had the concept of how the vest was put together from the start; although my drawn picture here only gives you a little bit of an idea.  I had been immersed in the future/punk look of a few different shows, and I had just come off of a bunch of fine work in both knitting and crochet – I was ready for a bulky vest that worked up quickly and looked a lot more complicated than it was.  Crossed Arrow was the result.

I’d also been wanting to create a couple of pieces featuring things like broomstick – things that would introduce crocheters to the skill without making the whole project about the skill.

I love that Crossed Arrow is simple – the vast majority of the project is single crochets through the back loop.  Occasionally you crochet to create an armhole, and in the beginning and the end you work increases or decreases for the neckline.  But mostly?  It’s just using one of the foundation stitches of crochet to a really great effect.

Hairpin lace edging on Crossed Arrow

Hairpin lace edging on Crossed Arrow

For me, it’s the details of the piece that make it – specifically, the broomstick lace edging.  Look at the picots!  Look how the rest over the edges!

Crossed Arrow is currently available in print or online in Crochetscene 2015.  You can also read my more personal notes about the pattern on Ravelry.

Sockupied Fall 2015: Electrostatic Lines Knee Socks

As I mentioned yesterday, I’ve got a bunch of patterns that have come out in the last four weeks.  If you’ve been paying attention to my design page on Ravelry (you know you can follow the page on Ravelry, right?), my published patterns page jumped from 35 patterns to 45 – a full ten (TEN!) patterns released this last week.  It’s also part of the reason I was sooo busy the beginning of this year.  Today I want to take the time to highlight Electrostatic Lines, featured in Sockupied’s Fall 2015 issue.  Electrostatic Lines is a pair of stranded knit knee socks with a fun twist to make the calf fit you perfectly!

I’ve loved designing for Sockupied.  They’re one of the smaller magazines out of Interweave, but I love the focus on quality patterns, and the editor’s commitment to bringing really great sock articles forward.

Sockupied Fall 2015

Credit: Interweave/Harper Point Photography

In this issue, Electrostatic Lines are on the cover (my fourth pair on a Sockupied Cover!) – and I think these are one of my favorite pairs of socks I’ve ever designed.

Credit: Interweave/Harper Point Photography

I was working on these socks nearly a year ago today.  I knew these were going to be a particularly difficult pair of socks – not only did I have to finish them and Karner Butterfly in about 4 weeks, but knee socks are a haul.  When you get past the heel, you’re barely halfway done.  But I loved sitting on the front porch of our house in the mornings and afternoons and just steadily churning through the rows.  I love how there’s a bit of interest at the toe, the mini-gusset followed by the short row heel, and then the fun joy of working stranded knitting up the leg.  Knee socks are a commitment – but they’re worth it.

Steadily working up the leg

This was one of my first projects using ChiaoGoo’s Red Lace Needles, and I was in the process of falling in love, leaving my Addi’s in the dust.

Trying socks on as you go – toe up all the way!

There are so many things I’m proud of in this pattern.  I love that you can try these socks on as you go, to make sure that the calf fits just as it should.  The stranded knitting for the leg is written in such a way that increases can be added or subtracted as needed, so the pattern will fit perfectly for your calf.

And quite simply, I fell in love with this color combination: nearly a perfect, yet counter-intuitive combo for fall.  Hedgehog Fiber’s Rusty Nail and Graphite work lovely together.  They just seam to glow, especially in the sunlight.

You can check out more details about my sample pair of Electrostatic Lines on Ravelry, which includes the time information for this particular pair of socks.

Rusty Nail seems to glow

Electrostatic Lines is available from Sockupied, along with a bunch of other quality patterns.  Buy your copy here!

Update From the Camp Front

The last week has been a flurry of busy – I’ve been running camps in the morning and the afternoon, and totally been immersed in fiberarts.

I wanted to share some of the highlights from this past week.

Working on Pikachu in Punch Rugwork

Working on Pikachu

One of my students in Knockout Punch Rug Needlework created an absolutely stunning Pikachu.  Working in Punch Rug Work (like rug hooking, except you’re looking at the wrong side right now), he blasted through the piece displaying both creativity and problem solving, expecially considering the limited palette I had available.

Fingerless Glove - in knititng!

Working on a Fingerless Glove

I had a young eight year old who was ABSOLUTELY DETERMINED that she would finish her fingerless glove, no matter what.  Everything else was secondary, every second we had “free work” time, (and some times we did not), she was pulling out her knitting to work “just another row.”

Needle felting, Punch Rug Hooking, Dyed Yarn

Needle felting, Punch Rug Hooking, Dyed Yarn

I had another camper who fell in love with needle felting, creating a lovely bag, a pillow out of her punch rug work, and took home a gorgeous hand-dyed ball of yarn.  She couldn’t have been happier with her projects!

This week marks the last week of the camps, with another round of String Theory, and then Next Step Needlework.  I’m so excited to see what students create!