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Repair and Restoration: Behind the Scenes

Last Thursday I had a lovely surprise: Jeanne Huber, a reporter in the Washington Post, quoted me heavily in answer to a question about repairing an afghan.  She had been asked a question: was there a way to get the holes in her afghan repaired?  Huber called Fibre Space (one of the yarn stores I often teach at), who in turn recommended her to me.  Huber had gotten in touch with me on a Friday afternoon, and between packing up to leave for a long weekend, I chatted to her on the phone about how I do repair.

Huber did a lovely job with the article, taking my rambling replies and distilling them into the pertinent information.  As a result, I’ve been able to chat with a number of people looking to have family pieces repaired.

Still, it left me realizing that there’s a bit of mystery to what I do, and I wanted to expand a little upon the article.

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Blanket in the process of being repaired

How I Approach Repair Work

When someone gets in touch with me looking to get an item fixed, I try and have a dialogue with the customer about their goals.  What is it they want from the repair?  What would be the ideal results for them?  Are they looking to have an item repaired so they can use it further or are they looking to have the holes fixed so that the problem doesn’t get worse?  Are they on a budget?   Are they looking for the item to look pristine or are they willing to allow the repair to become part of the character of the object?

Each person has a different idea of what “fixed” means.

21831892331_7742a4b943_bMeanwhile, I’m also looking at the practical part of the project.  How damaged is the item?  How widespread is the wear?  Would attempting to fix the item hurt things further?  When I’m looking into this I’m often learning about the history of the item: if it was stored in a place where a lot of sunlight, heat or humidity could get to it, the fibers may be damaged.  Are the places where wear is showing from use – such as worn out fingers on mittens, or a handle on a bag becoming worn, or because of a different factor?  Often the answers form the type of repairs I can do – mittens that are going to get further wear over each winter are going to receive different treatment than a Christmas stocking that’s taken out once a year.

Based on the customer’s feedback, I come back with a number of options.

Sometimes this means the repairs are visible repairs: so that the owners can show where the original piece is, and where the repairs are.  Sometimes this means we transform a piece: adding a cute embroidered kitten over an elbow patch.  Other times the repairs are nearly invisible as I splice new yarn into the old.

Just as I put time and thought into repairing damaged items, so can you put the time and thought into what you want from your repair.  Worried that a piece of yours might need help?  Check out my post on what to look for.  Already decided to have your piece fixed?  Get in touch with me through my finishing form– I’d love to start our conversation!

New Online Learning Videos with Interweave

You may remember that over the summer, I went to Interweave in Fort Collins, CO to film four classes. This was part of Interweave’s Online Learning video program.  The first one, based off of Stained Glass Rug, was released a couple of months ago.  The others, I’m happy to report, have just come out!  Let me tell you about them!


Short Rows in Crochet: Learn Shaping and Texture Techniques for a Great FitEP12640

This class is based on a method of working short rows that I uninvented.  I’ve been using this technique for a while now, as I love the texture and look it gives crochet fabric.  I also love how shaping can be achieved to create projects that imitate ribbing in knitting, or allow you to play with color.

This class has two free patterns that come with the download or video: Riverbend Skirt and Ski Slope Hat.

In addition to teaching you about short rows, this class also has a great tutorial about using the mattress stitch to seam together crochet stitches.  I think you’ll love it.

You can purchase the class here, for $19.99.

 


Quick Crochet VestQuick Crochet Vest: Learn Broomstick Lace, Short-Rows, Back Loop Stitches & More

I love my Pattern Crossed Arrow Vest, and I think it’s the perfect project for beginners looking to challenge themselves!  Going into the class, the only skills you need to know are how to chain and single crochet.  I take you through the rest.

What I love about this pattern is how, with very little shaping, you create a very flattering vest that works as a great layer piece.  And the best part is, with a bulkier weight yarn, this project just flies by.  With the video you get a free copy of Crossed Arrow, plus my instruction as I walk you through each of the steps to complete this project.

And if you’ve never tried broomstick, this is a great project to start on.  You’ll get the hang of it in no time.

You can purchase the class here, for $19.99.


 

Crochet Barber Pole Cowl: Stranded Colorwork Techniques and MoreCrochet Barber Pole Cowl

My Barber Pole Cowl has been featured in several of my classes, and I’m now glad to bring it to video with Interweave.  Like Crossed Arrow, this is a pattern that’s completely accessible to beginners: if you can single crochet and chain, I can teach you how to make this project!

With a lot of color options, this project is always popular around fall – a perfect pattern for working up in school or team colors, just as the air is getting nippy.

Here, I take you through learning how to crochet through the back loop (can you tell it’s one of my favorite techniques?) and also how to work stranded crochet – which is different than tapestry crochet!  Stranded crochet creates a fabric that is warmer (because of the two layers of yarn) and much stretchier than tapestry crochet.  It’s a fun and helpful skill to have in your arsenal.  In the process of learning this technique, you also learn how to change colors in crochet without making a jog.

If you like the pattern and love my classes, I think you’ll get a lot from this one.  You can purchase the class here, for $19.99.


Got questions about the videos?  I’d love to answer them!  And if you have bought the videos, how did you like them?

 

Changes: Pricing and Holiday Deadlines

Repair of a Shetland Lace Shawl

Repair of a Shetland Lace Shawl

It’s getting to be the end of October (where did all the time go?) and that means we’re starting to move into the Holiday season. This is the time of year where the amount of finishing and repair I do nearly triples!

I love doing finishing and repair work – I love being able to help you finish your projects and make them perfect!  I love helping you restore older pieces that have gotten loved on a little too much.

But the reality is that Finishing & Repair are the types of work I can only do so much of in a day before my well runs dry.  It’s also time (and very often space) consuming.  There’s a reason I get so many different large shawls, blankets and other large items to block!  I’m fortunate that Mr. Turtle and I have been able to dedicate a space in the house just for this type of work, and that he’s totally chill with finding a bunch of sweaters and other things drying on the guest bedroom bed.

Repairing a Crochet Blanket

Repairing a Crochet Blanket

What Changed?
Quite a few things have changed since I last changed my pricing-  nearly two years ago now!  And many of these changes have led to me concluding that prices need to increase.

  • I moved, and it became more costly for me to drive to my drop-off/pickup locations.
  • More individuals have opted to mail, and have me mail back, their items.  Postal prices have increased.
  • The type of projects I tend to get have become more complicated: most of my customers like to handle the “smaller items” themselves, and send me the more difficult projects.
  • My volume of projects has increased!  Now, don’t get me wrong – I’m happy about this.  BUT!  The reality is that knitting, crocheting, seaming, blocking, pinning, etc are all hand and arm heavy activities.  I’m relatively young, but I’d hate to find that 5 or 10 years down the road, I’ve given myself a repetitive stress injury.  Because of that, I limit the amount of hand-heavy activities I do during a day, and I make sure I have time to stretch in between.  This means I have a finite amount of time during the day I can devote to finishing and repair.
  • I’ve gotten better. As I practice more and learn more, the quality of my finishing and repair has increased, and I believe that my expertise is worth it!

Frankly, I’ve known I’ve had to raise my prices for nearly 6 months, but the reality of the holidays coming really drove the point home – my prices are not sustainable.

So what does this mean for you, my customer?

  1. Coming Sunday November 1st, my prices will be increasing on Finishing & Repair work.  My hourly rate will increase from $30 to $40.  Many of the categories in my Finishing line of services will also change – some won’t change as much as my hourly rate, and some won’t change at all.  But most things will be increasing by a little.
  2. On Monday November 30th, I will no longer be accepting Rush Service.  This will continue thru January 1st, and then Rush Service will return.  You may still request (and receive!) Express Service. That means if you want to get something finished or repaired before the Christmas Holidays – get it in sooner rather than later.
  3. There will be a new surcharge for oversized items.  Details are still being determined.  But the long and short of it is: I have cats.  I make sure all my finishing stays in places where it won’t get affected by cats.  This is fine for smaller items, but when I need to work on really large things, I have to rearrange my house to create a space where I can work that won’t also have cats laying all over it.  This extra effort needs to be taken into account – otherwise I’m going to get frustrated and grumpy every time I go to work on large items.  I don’t want that to happen.
  4. Note: for any of you that have gotten items to be before the November 1st deadline, don’t worry! Your projects will be charged under the old system.

Got questions about the changes?  As always, you can leave me a comment, or drop me an email, and I’ll be happy to answer them!

Thank you so much for being loyal customers!

Upcoming classes at Fibre Space

This weekend I’m teaching four different classes at Fibre Space (in Old Town Alexandria), and I wanted to share them with you.  There’s still spaces available; and I’d love to have you join us!

 

http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/karner-butterfly-socksStranded Crochet Cowl is based off of one of my favorite patterns for a quick gift: Barberpole Cowl.  Featuring Stranded Crochet, it’s a fun technique that creates and warm and durable fabric.  It’s also accessible for students that are still new to crochet: all you need to know is how to chain and single crochet – I’ll take care of the rest!

 

 

 

 


 

Finishing Essentials is one of my most in-demand classes, and covers skills such as:

  • weaving in ends
  • seaming
  • preventing or solving problems like curled hems or uneven seams
  • and dozens of tips to make the finishing process easier.

I do a lot of finishing, and I love to give you all my tips and tricks!


 

Intarsia Wrap is based off Frances Wrap, and features a unique way of working intarsia!  We learn:

  • a tubular cast on
  • tubular stockinette stitch
  • and Intarsia Colorwork

The result is a wonderfully modern wrap!

 


Oops! Fixing Mistakes is another one of my foundational classes. If the sight of a dropped stitch, a mixed up cable, or a problem in your lace sends you scrambling for outside help, this class if for you. Learn to fix your mistakes!


 

I’d love to see you in one of my classes!

Spinning Resources for Children

Recently I’ve had a number of individuals get in touch with me about spinning supplies for their children.  It can be hard for parents or guardians to know what to get their children when they have no knowledge of the craft itself.  Says one parent,

My daughter took your class over the summer and I wanted to get her craft supplies for the wool felting and the other crafts (except for crochet). What do you recommend and where can I get them?

I’ve created a list of supplies, resources and tools to help you get your child on their way to spinning!

Tools
Generally children first learn how to spin on a drop spindle.  These are either made from wood or plastic and are a dowel with a weight around it to enable the drop spindle to spin.  Think of them like tops – they look very similar!

Camper using TurtleMade Turkish Drop Spindle

Camper using TurtleMade Turkish Drop Spindle

  • TurtleMade ($25): Hands down my very favorite drop spindles to use with children.  I’ve used their Turkish Spindles – the advantage being that, when used correctly, the spindle creates a ball of yarn when done.  It’s much easier to ply from when first working with spinning.  Get the Standard size spindle – sometimes the smaller sizes are harder to use for children, as there’s less to grab onto.  I love that TurtleMade has different colors, and does special holiday themed spindles – there’s some really cool halloween printed ones.  TurtleMade’s plastic spindles have never broken on me, and even if they do, they sell replacement parts.
  • Knit Picks ($14.99): Wooden Drop spindle, heavier than TurtleMade’s, and is a solid option.  I don’t find these as sturdy.
  • There are a variety of other spindles out there, mostly in wood.  They range in prices from $39 to $50, and are really only worth acquiring if your child really gets into spinning.  Same thing with spinning wheels (which range from $150-1,000) – only get one if your child is serious about the craft.

Supplies
When children first learn how to spin there’s quite a bit of waste.  Normally it’s best to get a good amount of something affordable, and a little, “special” bit for when they’re further along.  A 4-8 oz amount of wool normally spins up to make something, depending on the thickness of the yarn.  Your child may be able to spin enough to make an accessory, such as gloves, a hat, or fingerless mitts.

  • Neutral colored wool ($1.49/oz):  Wool is generally a good fiber to begin spinning, as it tends to be the most cooperative for beginners.  Order anywhere from 4 – 8 oz to start – and don’t be surprised if your child goes through the amount quickly!  When you’re first learning, there’ll be a fair amount of waste.  If your child is interested in having colored yarn, after the yarn is spun you can experiment with food dyes.
  • After your child has mastered spinning, they may want to venture into other fibers or colors.  A few hints: DO not, until you know what you’re getting into, get anything called “Raw wool” – it’ll be tempting because it’s a lot cheaper, but that means the wool has not been cleaned (IE: has grass and oils from the sheep in it), and has not been carded.  Instead, look for words like, “Combed Top,” “Roving” or “Carded Batts.”

Resources
There are a number of resources for adults looking to spin, however, not all of these are particularly accessible to children, depending on the age.  The books/resources I’ve listed below are the best ones I’ve found for children, and contain lots of pictures!

  • Teach Yourself Visually Handspinning ($14.99): Plenty of pictures, this is one of the books that got me started.
  • Craftsy ($20 – $30): Craftsy has some great resources, if you don’t have access to local teachers.

From the Business Desk: Small Business Privacy

From the Business Desk is a semi-regular series that looks at some of the important factors in running a Small Fiber Arts Business.  This feature looks at some of the common privacy implications that Small Business owners should have an awareness of.  Join Mr. Turtle as he looks into the practicalities of privacy and small business.

Just the other week, the United States Office of Personnel Management (OPM) announced that in addition to the estimated 22.1 million identity records that had been compromised in an illicit hack of their databases, approximately 5.6 million sets of fingerprint records has been stolen as well.  Unlike a credit card or social security number, which can be changed or re-released, this personal biometric data is crucial to keep private, something that the OPM had failed to do.

While most small businesses do not operate at the scale of the Federal Government, they are still responsible for certain privacy requirements around how customer and employee data is collected and used.  In addition to the commonly thought of privacy items like securing data from theft, there are other more subtle aspects of privacy law that govern what a business can, and more importantly cannot, do with someone’s data.  While privacy has been growing in importance with the rise of the Digital Age, it has only been recently that the general public has become attuned to it’s importance in the world of commerce.  As a small business owner, having a baseline understanding of some of the key elements of privacy law can pay dividends in protecting your business and yourself from liability.

In the United States, unlike our European cousins, privacy regulations follow a sectoral approach: each sector of the economy has its’ own set of laws and regulations.  The general enforcement for privacy constraints in the business sphere, as opposed to more regulated sectors of industry like healthcare and finance, is the Federal Trade Comission (FTC).  In its’ creation with the Federal Trade Commission Act, the body is chartered with enforcing against “unfair and deceptive trade practices and acts,” of which case law has held includes taking appropriate privacy and security measures.  For the small business owner, this is important in how you portray your business’s privacy practices to your customers and the general public.

One of the first items a business owner should consider is that if you have a web presence, you should have a written Privacy Policy.  This serves to inform any visitors of their rights to their personal data, and more importantly, your intentions surrounding that data.  This in turn allows users to make informed decisions or know that for instance using a “contact me” form on your website may lead to their email address being added to your mailing list.  Additionally, the State of California in their 2003 Online Privacy Protection Act requires such a notice to be posted on the website if you may potentially be collecting identifiable information from California Citizens.  Given the interconnected web of e-commerce in today’s world, the chances are that this may be happening; ensuring that you have developed a current and accurate document unique for your business situation can cover a lot of your privacy bases in this respect.

Another key area a small business owner should be aware of is how they conduct any email communication and marketing.  As e-mail messaging has exploded in recent years, replacing more traditional postage service mailings, many small business owners have found themselves afoul of the regulations in this space.  Email messaging in the United States is primarily governed by the Controlling the Assault of Non-Solicited Pornography and Marketing Act (CAN-SPAM Act) of 2003.  In brief, the Act requires all email messages to possess a legitimate return email address and physical address of the sender, not have any false, misleading, or deceptive headers or subjects, and provide a clear and conspicuous way for the recipient to opt out of receiving future email messages at no cost to them.

Because of requirements such as these, I would recommend that any organization that intends to use email as a platform for outreach to consider selecting an Email Marketing service to assist in managing one’s distribution list.  Many of the commonly used services, such as Mad Mimi, MailChimp, or Constant Contact provide free or extremely cost effective basic plans for small business users.  These services allow the use of email formatting templates to assist in meeting all necessary privacy requirements, and additionally provide a platform by which recipients can individually manage their subscription status and opt in or out of receiving certain types of communications.  Additionally, such services assist in keeping email distribution lists secure, and ensure that when messages are sent out, recipients email addresses are not exposed to other individuals.  It is because of these benefits that any small fiber arts business should consider setting up an Email Marketing service as part of their initial business plan.

While the future of privacy law and requirements for U.S. based businesses may seem murky, a small fiber arts business can take heed of the above principals to best position themselves to be able to respond both to industry requirements as well as the overarching desires of their customer base.  By acting and thinking in the best interest of the customer, and treating customer information as you would have another company treat yours, the savvy business owner can create and maintain indispensable customer goodwill.  And that is an asset always worth having for your business.

Michael Raymond, CIPP/US

“Mr. Turtle”

Welcome Marly Fans!

Stained Glass Rug

The right and wrong sides of Stained Glass Rug

If you’re coming here from Marly Bird’s The Yarn Thing, welcome!  I’d love to have you sign up for my newsletter or follow me on Facebook or Twitter.  Feel free to read some of my previous blog posts!  If you enjoy tutorials, check out How to Set a Zipper in a Sweater.  If you like a behind-the-scenes look at designing, check out some of my posts on my designs in Crochetscene.  And if you’d like to revisit some of my oldest sock designs, check out a side by side comparison of two older designs.

If you’re already a regular… have you listened to my interview with Marly Bird on her podcast?  We just wrapped the interview up!  You can listen on  BlogTalk Radio.

 

Tomorrow I’ll give you a glimpse into some of the things I’ve been working on lately!

Tomorrow I’m Appearing On The Yarn Thing!

Marly-Bird-Podcast

Tomorrow I’ll be appearing on Marly Bird’s The Yarn Thing Podcast.  I’m terribly excited: Marly is an incredibly smart businesswoman and very genuine with an infectious laugh.  I’ve only gotten to meet her a couple of times – I’m so enthused to be able to chat with her on her podcast!

If you’ve never listened to a podcast before, they’re terribly fun.  Basically radio shows for the internet, there’s a variety of shows I love.  The Yarn Thing is one of the ones I listen to when I need to get some serious stitchin’ done.

Lest you think the show is all about yarn, knitting and crocheting, fear not – Marly is well known for arranging some killer prizes to give away during the show.

The Yarn Thing podcast runs live at 10 AM Mountain Time, but you can listen even after the podcast is done.  The link is HERE.

I’d love to hear what you think of the podcast after the fact.  Shoot me an email, comment, or send me a tweet or facebook message!

Isis Wings and Totoro: Old and New Handknit Socks

Yesterday I got a welcome package in the mail from Three Irish Girls: a pair of handknit socks.  Now, these weren’t just any two pairs of socks.  This pair of socks were the samples made for Three Irish Girls’ back in the day when I designed Totoro and Isis wings for them – two of the very first patterns I ever designed for them.  Seeing these two pairs of socks was like meeting old friends you didn’t know you had – both these samples were made by hired knitters, and sent straight to TIG headquarters.

Meanwhile, since I was new to the designing, I also created my own pairs of the socks, testing out the idea before I wrote it into a pattern.

I thought it would be interesting to compare the two samples side-by-side.

Two handknit socks, both the same pattern, one heavily worn and darned, the other new.

Isis Wings: Old Pair on Bottom, New (to me) pair on Top

Here you see Isis Wings, in both variations.  First, note my pair, worn with many washings and faded to grey from a sit in the sun.  There’s a stitch I noticed I need to mend marked by a stitch marker; the bottom is more darn than original sock.  The yarn I made my sample for was a little larger than the final yarn used for Isis Wings – the motif on mine ends up looking more open and bold.  For the final Isis wings I decided to set the heel decreases in a little, and I created a little bit of rounder toe.  The ribbing for the cuff on the final version is shorter, and I did something simpler and less distinctive than the 2×2 ribbing on my sample.  You might notice that one of my Isis Wings socks is taller than the other: I’ve mentioned before how I forgot a repeat on one of my socks.

Two handknit socks, same pattern, older one faded, newer one still vibrant.

Totoro; Old Pattern on Top, New Pattern on Bottom.

On Totoro the differences are a little more subtle.  The patterning with the slipped stitch V is the same; I changed the heel from a riverbed heel to a short row heel.  At the time, I couldn’t figure out how to write a Riverbed heel and grade it the way I wanted.  I added more repeats to the top on the final version.  Again, I couldn’t figure out how to wrap the pattern around the leg and grade it for different sizes, so the cuff of the sock has a column of missing V’s up each side.  If I were to go back, I’d either re-grade the pattern, or add some other feature up the leg on the side so it doesn’t look so empty.

Mitts and Crochet: New Classes at Untangled Purls

Starting next week I’ve got a great lineup of Fall classes at Untangled Purls, in Fredericksburg, VA.  I’m looking forward to the opportunity to teach at Untangled Purls: Most of my classes for the last year (with the exception of my camps) have been workshop based – that is, one and done.

I’ve missed the camaraderie and relationship that builds with a class when you teach week after week: you get to know your students better, and you get to watch students progress in a way that is different than workshops.  I wanted to highlight two of the classes I’ll be teaching at Untangled Purls.

Photocredit: © Ambah O'Brien

Photocredit: © Ambah O’Brien

Beginning Stranded Knitting is based of of a wonderful pattern called Maroo Mitts by Ambah.  This is a great introductory project to stranded knitting, and I hope you might be able to join me!  Learn more about the class here.

 

Photocredit: Freshstitches

Photocredit: Freshstitches

Crochet Softies is based around four of Stacey Trock’s FreshStitches patterns: Kepler the Lion, Nelson the Owl, Flavia the Unicorn and Cliff the Brontosaurus.  I love these patterns because they’re a great next step for students who have learned how to crochet, but haven’t quite mastered reading a pattern or working in the round.  I have so much fun helping students create these fun stuffed animals: and they make perfect gifts!  You can find out more about the class here!