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Isis Wings and Totoro: Old and New Handknit Socks

Yesterday I got a welcome package in the mail from Three Irish Girls: a pair of handknit socks.  Now, these weren’t just any two pairs of socks.  This pair of socks were the samples made for Three Irish Girls’ back in the day when I designed Totoro and Isis wings for them – two of the very first patterns I ever designed for them.  Seeing these two pairs of socks was like meeting old friends you didn’t know you had – both these samples were made by hired knitters, and sent straight to TIG headquarters.

Meanwhile, since I was new to the designing, I also created my own pairs of the socks, testing out the idea before I wrote it into a pattern.

I thought it would be interesting to compare the two samples side-by-side.

Two handknit socks, both the same pattern, one heavily worn and darned, the other new.

Isis Wings: Old Pair on Bottom, New (to me) pair on Top

Here you see Isis Wings, in both variations.  First, note my pair, worn with many washings and faded to grey from a sit in the sun.  There’s a stitch I noticed I need to mend marked by a stitch marker; the bottom is more darn than original sock.  The yarn I made my sample for was a little larger than the final yarn used for Isis Wings – the motif on mine ends up looking more open and bold.  For the final Isis wings I decided to set the heel decreases in a little, and I created a little bit of rounder toe.  The ribbing for the cuff on the final version is shorter, and I did something simpler and less distinctive than the 2×2 ribbing on my sample.  You might notice that one of my Isis Wings socks is taller than the other: I’ve mentioned before how I forgot a repeat on one of my socks.

Two handknit socks, same pattern, older one faded, newer one still vibrant.

Totoro; Old Pattern on Top, New Pattern on Bottom.

On Totoro the differences are a little more subtle.  The patterning with the slipped stitch V is the same; I changed the heel from a riverbed heel to a short row heel.  At the time, I couldn’t figure out how to write a Riverbed heel and grade it the way I wanted.  I added more repeats to the top on the final version.  Again, I couldn’t figure out how to wrap the pattern around the leg and grade it for different sizes, so the cuff of the sock has a column of missing V’s up each side.  If I were to go back, I’d either re-grade the pattern, or add some other feature up the leg on the side so it doesn’t look so empty.

Book Review: Socks A La Carte Colorwork

Today has been the day of socks.  I had to get the knitted sample of a design I’m working on for Sockupied off by 3 – so I was knitting the afterthought heel into the sock the entire morning.  (It was in Anzula.  It wasn’t exactly a hardship.)

Then, as I was working on the heel, my girlfriend Lois called with some knitting questions.  Specifically, I’d worked with her and another friend so they could each make their first pair of socks, and now Lois was getting ready to tackle her second pair.  Since working with the two ladies had been a rather informal affair, they’d gotten a sock pattern tailored specifically to them, and Lois had some questions about why I’d chosen the particular toe and heel that I’d taught them.  It led to a wonderful conversation about sock knitting philosophy, and in the course of the conversation I made a book recommendation that I’d thought I’d pass along to the rest of you!
Most of the resources I use for sock knitting that I reference nearly all the time are Knitty Articles.  Kate Atherley (who also tech edits for Knitty) has written a comprehensive primer of sock articles.  My favorites are Socks 101 and a blog post talking about foot sizing relationships.
Still, I started thinking about one of the books I used a lot when I first started knitting socks.  I ended up telling Lois about the Socks A La Carte series by Jonelle Raffino & Catherine Cade.  I own the Colorwork one, and have borrowed from the Library a few different times the other two.
What I love about these books is simple.  Remember those toys when you were a child where you could pick a head, pick a body, then pick a pair of legs?  And you could mix and match them to your heart’s content?  That’s this book series.  You can choose what you like from all the different patterns, mix and match, and come to the pair of socks that you like the most: with your favorite toe, heel, cuff and leg.  It’s particularly delightful.

In other news, I’ve got some serious pattern writing to do tomorrow.  So if my blog post on Friday is light, you’ll know why.  My brain will be wrung out.

Lastly, I’ve been having a great conversation in the Designer Forums on Ravelry about work schedules, Flow, and staying on task.  It’s particularly enlightening.

What I’ve been working On

Otherwise known as, It’s Too Hot to come up with a real blog post title.

sneak peek – shhhh!

Last week I was working on a crochet top that will be coming out with PieceWork next year.  I’m super excited about it – it’s very rare that I get to work with linen.

The design is a bit of a leap of faith.  I was working with Louet’s Euroflax, which is, by far, one of the smoothest linen’s I’ve worked with.  What I mean by this is that I didn’t find the yarn as harsh on my hands as I’ve found other linen.  Now, that wasn’t to say that that, while working with it, the yarn wasn’t stiff as all get out, but the finished product was worth it.

When I put it in the washing machine and the dryer, it softened up so much, and the drape came out beautiful.

I can’t wait for you guys to see it – though it’s a long way off from publication!

On a slightly different note, Michael and I made pizza the other night, and I think it was the best home-made pizza I’ve had, bar none.  Seriously, it ranks in the top five pizza’s I’ve had in my life.

Part of it was because we used homemade pizza sauce (and the key here, I think, is letting it age in the fridge for a day after you make it).  Part of it was we (accidentally) used whole milk mozzarella cheese.

It had steak and spinach and onion on it, and it was amazing.  I had a piece for breakfast and an piece for lunch, and I have no regrets.  None.

On a final note, I’m getting ready to go to Yosemite the end of this week.  It’s set to be a blast, but I have so much work to get done before we leave.  After we come back, we’re stopping by the farm for the 4th of July, and then I’m launching into a month of teaching a camp.

If you haven’t heard (or you aren’t part of mailing list, which you should be), I’m teaching a camp called String Theory through Montgomery County College.  It’s set to be amazing, and some of the sessions are still open.  The class runs weekly from 1-4.  There’s 4 sessions: the week of July 7th, the week of July 14th, the week of July 21st, and the week of July 28th.  This is a great introduction into some of the needlecrafts, including Knitting, Spinning and Sewing.  I’m Super Thrilled to be offering these through Montgomery County College!

What have you been up to this summer?

Carrying Davidson With Me

I’ve been talking a bit the last few days about Davidson College (my alma mater), which has been on my mind since Michael and I are currently driving our way from Washington, DC to Davidson, NC.  As previously mentioned, we’re going for Michael’s brother’s graduation.

I’ve been talking about how Davidson College played heavily into the designing I do today.  From resources like The Needlecraft Center to the art program at Davidson, this town and college started the transformation from a casual stitcher to fiber-arts professional.  There is, however, one other major thing I’ve taken with me away from Davidson that has been instrumental in leading me where I am today.

My husband.  Michael.

Back then, of course, he was my boyfriend, whom I had been dating for three years.  As a freshly minted graduate, I had an English Degree in hand, a job working for my alma mater (which I was very happy about, as the job market had just plummeted), and a plan to live with Michael and two other friends in a house off campus.  Michael and my friends were all seniors, and a year younger than I.

Early design project that has been revised,
and will be published later in the year.

I found myself with a profusion of free time.  Having no course load and a job that lasted from 9-5, I had evenings free for the first time in my life.  It was amazing. I was doing more spinning than I had ever been able to do, and was knitting and crocheting up a storm.  I quickly tired of other people’s patterns, and began to work patterns of my own.

There was one such time, working on a pair of socks, that I began to write things down, so I could remember what I did for the second sock.  And it was about that time that Michael began to say, “You could make money from that.”

At first, I scoffed at the idea.  There aren’t many entrepreneurs in my immediate family, nor did I run into many people where I lived who ran their own business.  In contrast, Michael’s father has run a successful small business most of Michael’s life.  What seemed inconceivable to me seemed obvious to him.

Michael kept at it, though, asking thoughtful questions and encouraging me to learn enough about the industry to make an informed decision.  It was there
where I began to seriously think about what it would take to be a designer.  I wasn’t ready yet to take the leap, and I had a lot of learning to do, but it was at Davidson that the seeds were planted.

Week of Interviews – Alice Yu and Deuce

Alice Yu has an impressive knitting resume.  She is the owner of Socktopus, and creator of the popular Knit Love Yarn Club.  You my recognize her work by the popular pattern, Shur’tugal or by her book, published in 2011, Socktopus: 17 Pairs of Socks to Knit and Show Off.  Alice has kindly managed to carve out time in her schedule to answer some of my questions.

Alice, tell us a bit about yourself.
I’m an expat Canadian living in Hong Kong by way of London England.  I used to be a lawyer, then sort of fell into knitting, like falling down the rabbit hole. Ever since then my life has been an adventure in knitting, designing and dyeing yarns. 
Deuce has such a fascinating stitch pattern.  Loving working with stranded yarns and slipped stitches, I’m curious how you came up with the pattern.  Did you need to swatch for it very much?

I played around with slipped stitches with my design De Stijl, and thought that it had potential.  Deuce is a follow on from that design, using the same technique.  I played around with alot of different combinations but settled on one that was relatively easy to remember.  
How did you come up with the names for your pattern?
Names for patterns are often inspired by my life at the time of designing, or if the pattern reminds me of something (like Fiori di Zucca that reminded me of zucchini  flowers).
Why do you like to design socks?
I love socks because they are the ultimate portable project. A small microcosm where you can play with all manner of knitting techniques – short rows, slipped stitches, texture, cables, etc.  A great canvas but not overly involved – I have  short attention span so socks are the perfect thing for me.
Are there any things you are hoping to design in the future?
I would like to design some kid’s wear – having a little one has opened up a lot of possibilities and things I would like to see her in but can’t find.
Is there a favorite time of day you prefer to knit?
I love knitting in the afternoon – a nice calm time when I’m not too tired. 
If you were making your own trail mix, what would you put in it, and why?
My own trail mix would have: raisins, a nice 54% chocolate chip, roasted almonds, granola clusters, Brazil nuts (love those), dried cranberries, some cocao nibs, and roasted hazelnuts. 
Having said that, I do love Chex mix.
Thank you Alice for taking the time to stop and chat  with us today.  If you are interested in more about Alice, visit her website at http://www.socktopus.co.uk/blog/.
If you would like to track back to the other interviews they are as follows:

Check out the Proposal! Totem

When I first
started designing, one of the most helpful resources I had access to was a
thread on Ravelry (actually, it might have been several) that outlined
successful proposals that designers had sent publishers.  In the spirit of giving to others, I’ve been
wanting to open a series of posts about successful proposals that I have done,
in the hopes that other budding designers can learn from them.
I’m also doing
it in the spirit of a Theatre Traditon (actors and stagehands and practically everyone that has something to do with the stage are big on traditions) which
is called the Post Mortem (debriefing).  Literally
“after death”, it’s a meeting after the run of a play that talks about what has
been done well, what didn’t go well, and what would be changed in the future.  Nobody’s perfect.  There’s always room to improve.
So in that
spirit, this is my proposal for Sockupied Spring 2013.
You can take a look at it here, or it is embedded below.

I actually sent
them two proposals, but one of them I’m sending out to other magazines, so I
can’t show you yet.  But I can show you
the one that got in.
Things that were
done well:

  • Big
    picture of the swatch.  Well photographed
    and in good light.  A must.
  •  Outline
    of inspiration – a fair amount of companies, I’ve found, often use the language
    from my inspiration post that I write on my proposals.  It works for me, so I keep doing it.
  •  I
    meet the design call requirements – I have my contact information, the yarn
    needed, and construction details.  I have
    a brief bio that I always use.
  • I high-lighted that this pattern works well in multicolored and solid yarns.  A lot of companies like patterns that are
    able to do this, and in this case, it made a good fit for the One Sock Two Ways
    feature in Sockupied.
  • It’s
    one page. 

Things that I could have done better:  

  • My
    drawing skills need to improve.  I could have
    made a much better drawing – and this is something I’m working to fix.  On the other hand, as long as the drawing is
    functional and conveys what you want it to convey – don’t stress out about it
    too much.  Companies are hiring a
    designer for their knit or crochet ability – not their drawing ability.
  • I
    could have used a more professional layout. This I’ve already fixed.  I hired someone shortly after I submitted this to create a logo for me, and
    later in the year I’ll be hiring the same person (Knitterella) to do layout
    design for me.   This is the first way
    many editors meet me – it always pays to present yourself well.

Have you submitted any proposals to be published?  What do you think went well?  What could have went better?

Working on Charts

One of the harder things to do when I’m designing is charts, for both knit or crochet.  Especially for crochet. Because both mediums are so flexible, computers seem to have problems with charting these things out.

It looks okay now, but it took 3 programs to get this the way I wanted it –
And it could still be better.

I’ve been working on updating some of my class worksheets, and have been working on crochet charts to go along with them.  In order to get a chart the way I want it, I often have to hop between several different programs, because none of them do quite what I want them to do.  Such is the way of life I guess.

Has there been a time where you’ve had to kludge something together technologically to get it to do what you want?  What did you have to do?  How did it turn out?

The Design Process, Part 1, the Concept

The other day, I was talking to a customer about a pattern from a magazine.  She had come across a line that was particularly confusing in one part of the pattern, and had come into The Yarn Spot seeking help.  We puzzled over it for a couple of minutes and managed to get the pattern sorted out.

“I wish she had explained it better.  You would think that a designer would have more pride in their work,” I remember her saying.


At the time I let the comment stand, because I could understand her frustration. But as a designer, I felt it would be interesting to talk about patterns and their relationship with designers. The design process encompasses much more than just the pattern in the magazine.  It is entirely possible that the designer explained the pattern better in their original draft, but because of space constraints a magazine editor revised it to be shorter, sacrificing clarity.


Over the next few weeks I’ll be writing about the different aspects of what happens during the design process, and why a pattern might not be as perfect as a designer wanted it to be.  I’ll be discussing the design process by further breaking it down into 5 key phases (though they don’t always come in this order):  the concept, the sample, the pattern, photography, and layout.


Let’s start with The concept.


Approximately 4-9 months before a magazine, booklet, book, or single pattern is scheduled to be published, the publisher sends out a design call.


Depending on the company and the medium, a design call can be many different things.  For a magazine, the editors might have a specific  theme in mind for that issue of the magazine.  For example, Interweave Knits might be doing a spring issue, and they want transitional pieces, pieces that move from winter to spring.  A yarn company might publish booklets to go with their yarn.  Classic Elite Yarn might want something that highlights their Classic Silk yarn.  Someone might want to publish a book all on designs inspired by Sherlock Holmes.  Once a publisher decides on the details of their theme, they put out a press release (most commonly via e-mail or on their website {like here, here or here) talking about the types of designs they want.  

Drawing of Idea

Designers are constantly keeping track of these different design calls.  Not all design calls fit all designers, so most pick and choose which ones they want to work on, and which ones they have the most likely-hood of getting into.


Swatch

Then, designers dream.  They draw pictures, create swatches, do math and layout schematics.  Finally they come up with an idea that they think it will work.  They put together everything they have done – the drawing, swatches, schematics and submit it to the company.


Designers then wait, work on other projects they have under contract and plan other ideas for design calls.  If their proposal is what the editors are looking for, they are notified with an offer to publish their design.  A contract with the publisher is signed, and the publisher (most often) sends them the yarn to create the sample.


But that’s another post.

In which I close my posts on Organization

By Librarian by Day

As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been talking about organization and thinking a lot about it too.  I even went to Ravelry and asked some of the people in the Designers forum how they stay organized.  I’ve been mining Pinterest, and even came across this great graphic.

I wanted to share some of what I’ve learned:

  • Ruth, of http://www.rockandpurl.com/, pointed out that “dormant projects” is much better than “rejected projects”.
  • I really love RescueTime to keep me accountable about how much time I’m spending on “fun” things, and how much I’m spending on “work.”
  • Stephannie of SunsetCat, pointed out how important it is to organize your stash, especially when you have yarns for designing and personal yarns.
  • Others have found Asana, StoryTracker, and Eternity  helpful in tracking workflow, design projects, and how much time you spend on different tasks.  I can’t vouch for all of them, as some of them are app-based (and I don’t have a smartphone) but they’re worth checking out.
  • I learned about IFTT, a website that automates tasks you do over and over again.  I’ve set my account up to automatically tweet and post on facebook when I make a blog post.  I’ve also got it set up to notify me anytime someone finishes one of my projects on Ravelry.  It’s got a bit of a learning curve, but if you can overcome it, the website is quite powerful and customize-able.
  • If you don’t like IFTT, HootSuite takes care of cross-posting to Linkin, Facebook, Twitter, and several other websites.

Over and over again I’ve heard that it doesn’t really matter what your system is, if it works for you. Just make sure you have some system.  If you are designing as a career, treat it like one.  Act professional.  Stay organized so you can meet deadlines on time.

Keeping Things Moving

I’ve been thinking a lot about making the most of my time and getting things done.  It’s not a surprise, since the beginning of Fall is much more about new beginnings than the New Year’s ever is.

the corkboard of doom, looking bare because
 it was just put together after the cats tore it up.

One of my favorite authors, Seanan McGuire, describes herself as a pumpkin girl – a child of autumn as you will (her letters to the great pumpkin are worth reading).  That resonates strongly with me – for there’s a whole lot of potential in the fall – school (the portal of learning) starting, seeds (which will grow into things) dropping, food ripening and being stored for winters, Halloween (where you can be ANYTHING your brain and creativity can come up with) – there’s so much stored energy in the Fall.

So it makes sense that I’d start looking at how I organize myself and my life.  One of the best tools I use right now to organize my designing is a set of two cork-boards.  They work like this: The first cork board has four categories: calls for proposal, pending proposals, submitted proposals and pending contracts. I try to keep at least two items in each of the first three categories, and hopefully at least one in the fourth.

My other board is my project board. It has: not started, in progress, sent, and pending payment. This helps me keep track of what I need to get done. When I find a call for proposal that fits me, it starts on the first board with date and details, and then hopefully moves to the second board, adding more notes to each piece of paper as it goes. At a glance, I can see what’s in the pipeline and when it’s due.
How do you keep track of tasks that need to get done?  Do you have a planner?  Calendar?  Something else?  I’m looking for a way of organizing when my pattern’s rights revert back to myself, and I’d be interested in any suggestions ya’ll have.